Coin collectors appreciate the variety of quarters that are available to them. Today most people are familiar with the George Washington and "US States" series, but there are some other quarter designs that hold a special appeal for collectors. Perhaps one of the best loved designs is the one known as a Draped Bust quarter. The first of the Draped Bust engraving dies dates back to the 18th century. At that time the chief engraver for the US Mint was Robert Scot. He created the draped bust profile of Lady Liberty for the first US quarter minted in 1796.

On the front of these coins is a bust profile of Lady Liberty. The backs of these coins are stamped with an eagle design. The 1796 quarters are unique with the combination of the draped bust design on their front and a "small eagle" stamped on the reverse. 1796 quarters are the only ones that have the "small eagle" stamp and this has made them a hot find for any true collector.

Because of to their scarcity, due in large part to limited production, the 1796 quarters are highly coveted. Today these quarters command premium prices regardless of their overall condition. If you can locate one of the 1796 Draped Bust-Small Eagle coins in good condition you will pay about $9,500. You should expect to pay 26-30,000 for one of these quarters if it is in fine condition.

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VG 1806 Draped Bust 25c Quarter Dollar below red book $    US $299.00

1804 NGC VG8 DETAILS DRAPED BUST QUARTER RARE DATE    US $4,499.00

1806 DRAPED BUST QUARTER DOLLAR VG GREAT COIN    US $227.50

RARE 1804 DRAPED BUST QUARTER DOLLAR MINI SILVER COIN    US $.99

Another extremely rare date is the 1804 Draped Bust quarter. This coin has an aggressive, heraldic eagle emblem stamped on the reverse side. The front/obverse design is the same one that is used on the Draped Bust quarters from 1804-1807. Due to the fact that this design had a run of several years the prices for an 1804 Draped Bust quarter are not as prohibitive as the ones for the 1796 Draped Bust-Small Eagle specimens. But due to a very low mintage numbers in 1804, this date can be very hard to come by. A collector might be able to find one of the 1804 quarters for less than $5000.

If you want a coin that depicts the Draped Bust-Heraldic Eagle design, and you are willing to accept a year other than 1804, the prices are even better. Most of the quarters that were minted from 1805-1807 will cost anywhere from a couple hundred dollars to several thousand. For many coin collectors these more common dates are the best way to obtain a beautiful example of the first US quarters at a reasonable price.

Capped Bust Quarters

John Reich was the engraver who created the design for the original capped bust quarter. These coins were produced for a limited number of years. The first minting occurred in 1815 and these coins had a Lady Liberty profile that was strikingly different from the ones that were authorized by Robert Scot. While Scot's depiction of Lady Liberty was one that embodied a stern, no-nonsense attitude, this new Lady had a gentle smile and beribboned cap on her head. These quarters seem almost festive when you first look at them.

It is interesting to note that the cap on the head of Lady Liberty had the word, "Liberty" printed on the headband. This was very much like caps that were then being given to freed slaves. While some people took issue with this type of headwear being featured on the nation's coins, President Jefferson agreed that the cap was appropriate and looked like others worn by women of this era. On the back of these quarters is an eagle, but this eagle has outstretched wings and a less threatening appearance than the heraldic eagle that it replaced.

The capped bust quarters are separated into 2 distinct classes. One is the large size which is the original design. The large capped bust coins were printed from 1815 until 1828. In 1831 the newly designed, small capped bust quarters were introduced. This smaller quarter had a diameter of 24.3mm, and this measurement is still being used for our modern quarters.

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1825 4 2 CAPPED BUST QUARTER PROBLEM FREE XF    US $500.00

1835 Capped Bust Quarter XF Shattered Broken Die    US $225.00

1838 Capped Bust Quarter CHOICE VF EARLY DATE    US $124.50

1836 Capped Bust Quarter 25c EARLY DATE XF    US $51.01

In 1838 America was presented with the first of the Seated Liberty quarters. These began to be produced after the introduction of the Seated Liberty silver dollars and both coins were well received by the public. For many people the classic beauty of the designs make these quarters and silver dollars collectible as works of art.

Seated Liberty Quarters Designs

The design of the Seated Liberty quarter has changed over the years. There are 7 distinctively different modifications to this series of quarters that spans more than 50 years. The very first change was seen in 1840 when a draped material was added to the figure's elbow. In 1853 the coin's reverse side was altered so that the eagle could be highlighted with a spray of rays in the background. This was the year that the front date was also bracketed by arrows.

The front of a Seated Liberty quarter shows the national icon in a sitting position. She is depicted with one of her hands holding a pole and the other resting on a shield. The pole is flying a Liberty cap, or mobcap, and these represent freedom and resolution. On the reverse of the coin is a heraldic eagle design almost identical to the one that was used on the 1796-1807 Bust quarters. The only detail that separates these two designs is that the eagle on the reverse of the Seated Liberty coin does not have a scroll. These eagles are clutching arrows in one claw and the other holds an olive branch. These two objects signify the willingness and ability of the American people to pursue either war or peace.

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1877 SILVER SEATED QUARTER    US $9.95

1853 ARROWS RAYS SEATED LIBERTY QUARTER VG    US $23.50

C USA 1877 CC Liberty Seated Quarter F    US $69.00

1854 Seated Quarter w arrows xf    US $19.51

1875 Seated Quarter Good    US $5.50

185318561861 Silver Seated Liberty Quarters Nice    US $28.25

Seated Liberty Quarter 1875 Nice Coin w Scratch    US $29.00

1854 SEATED LIBERTY QUARTER W ARROWS NO RAYS    US $15.00

Connect with the Past

To many individuals these Seated Liberty coins continue to radiate feelings of pride, courage and independence. These tangible parts of history allow a personal connection with the past and are highly desirable. There is a large group of dedicated collectors actively seeking to buy the finest examples that are available.

Basics of Collecting

Collecting Seated Liberty quarters is a fascinating hobby that almost anyone can enjoy. Some early dates are easy to find because of the relatively large numbers of coins that were minted. Be aware that the NM or Uncirculated specimens are much more difficult to locate, and these will cost much more than the ones that are graded as good or fair. If you want to develop a serious collection of coins you should always try to find those that with at least a grade of G-VG.

Investment Possibilities

There are few mint Seated Liberty quarters with dates earlier than 1874 and these are all highly prized by collectors. The prices that some of these coins can bring are staggering and it is the investment potential that attracts many new members to the world of coin collecting. It is quite possible for beginners to make a respectable profit in this hobby if they make wise acquisitions. This is why it is so crucial that you learn as much information about the coins as possible before you begin to buy, sell or trade.

Rare Examples and Prices

The 1870 CC coins that were minted at Carson City are some that any serious coin collector would mortgage their home to obtain. Another extremely rare Seated Liberty is the one known as the "No Arrows" 1873CC. At the present time there are only 3 existing examples and in 1990 one of these Seated Liberty designs sold for more than $300,000. This amount almost quadrupled the price that had been paid for it only 15 years earlier.

History of the Barber Quarter

These quarters were designed by Charles Barber and are one of the few coin series that are known by the name of the designer instead of by the design itself. These quarters feature the head of Lady Liberty shown in full right profile. There is a laurel wreath and cap atop the head and ribbons in the hair along the back of the neck. The B that is found at the base of the neck denotes Charles Barber as the die designer. The words In God We Trust are printed at the top of the coin over the head. The Barber quarters have 6 stars along the left front side of the coin and 7 on the right. On the reverse of the quarter is the familiar eagle design with outstretched wings. The right talon holds 13 arrows and the left is grasping an olive branch. The coin's mint mark is located just below the tail of the bird:

• No mark indicates that it was produced at the Philadelphia mint.
• S signifies that the coin came from San Francisco, and
• O is the mark of the New Orleans Mint.

These coins were minted for only a short time during the years 1892-1916. This happened to coincide with a time that coin collecting was experiencing a tremendous change. In earlier years many people might hold onto coins because of a date, but the idea of collecting coins with different mint marks was just being introduced.

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1909 D BARBER QUARTER    US $4.54

1911 P BARBER QUARTER    US $7.05

1915 Barber Quarter Nice Coin    US $6.00

5 BARBER QUARTERS 1898 1899 S 1901 1914 D 1916    US $20.00

1902 O BARBER QUARTER    US $35.00

BARBER QUARTER 1902O ABOUT GOOD F008    US $7.00

1914 P BARBER QUARTER    US $3.04

1914 D BARBER QUARTER    US $3.21

Why Early Mint Barber Quarters are Hard to Find

The lack of early interest in mint marks explains why there are often few examples of coins with low circulation numbers available. People did not realize how valuable some of these limited production coins from San Francisco or New Orleans facilities would become in the future. The Barber head quarters were frequently minted in very high numbers for public circulation. Some people are surprised to discover that even some examples from large production can cost hundreds of dollars but one of the reasons is that money was hard to come by and it was often spent as quickly as it was earned. During the years of the Barber quarters production it was not easy for the average person to set aside a hefty sum like 25 cents, which helps explain why so few of these millions of coins survived in mint to near mint condition.

Key Examples to Look For

If you are searching for some key Barber quarters to add to your collection there are 3 dates that are important to remember. Circulated grade Barber quarters can be almost as elusive to find as some of the mint examples. The 1901 S is extremely difficult to find and is highly desirable. There were only 72, 664 of these coins minted which makes the task of locating one of these quarters a daunting challenge. Another date that would be considered a true treasure is the 1913 S Barber quarter. This series had a run that was limited to about 40,000 and there have only been relatively few of these that have been unearthed. The scarcity and demand can be seen in the prices that these coins are now commanding. A 1901S Barber quarter in G4 condition sold for about $1700 just 10 years ago and today this same coin can easily bring $4000 or more. The same quarter in MS60 condition was being sold for about $10-12K in 1998 and today it would fetch close to $30K. These kinds of profits make it easy to see why coin collecting remains one of the top hobbies for millions of people around the world.

1917 Design Changes

The very next year there was a change in the design that resulted in complete coverage of the coin's female figure. Now she appeared clad in a suit of armor. Even the reverse engraving was re-worked. The eagle was moved into the center position and 3 stars were placed under this national symbol, leaving 10 stars on the sides, instead of the original 13.

Recessed Dates

Standing Liberty quarters were produced for 14 years and the last ones were minted in 1930. In addition to the controversy over the bared breasts it became obvious that the coin dates were wearing away far quicker than expected. The numbers were struck in a raised design which gave the coins an interesting look and feel, but the silver metal could not hold up to the extreme amounts of handling. Beginning in 1925 the dates on the front of these silver coins were recessed so that the numbers would remain visible longer.

You can find some of the earlier Standing Liberty quarters being offered at very good prices but many of them have dates that are almost impossible to decipher. Today eagle eyed collectors search for earlier coins with dates prior to 1925 with the raised numbers that still show sharp definition. These examples are more valuable and are graded much higher than those that show evidence of excessive rubbing and handling.

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40 Standing Liberty Silver Quarters Unsearched Lot D46    US $100.50

40 Standing Liberty Silver Quarters Unsearched Lot D47    US $95.15

40 Standing Liberty Silver Quarters Unsearched Lot D48    US $100.00

1927 STANDING LIBERTY QUARTER    US $100.00

1927 STANDING LIBERTY QUARTER    US $75.00

24 Silver Standing Liberty Quarters Mixed Dates    US $71.07

1917 P STANDING LIBERTY QUARTER    US $21.00

1917 S STANDING LIBERTY QUARTER    US $51.54

Full Head/Full Rivets

Among these quarters are some particular examples that are highly sought by collectors. One of these is described as a "Full Head" Standing Liberty quarter. These are coins that display every detail on the figure's head. Examples of these are very difficult to find, especially in one of the higher grade conditions. Collectors are also eager to collect Standing Liberty quarters with a full complement of rivets on the shield. A true prize is a coin that contains a full rivet shield and a full head and these command very high prices.

Standing Liberty Dates and Marks

If you are a new collector you will notice that in addition to the dates on the front of these coins there is also a small M that can be seen just to the right of these numbers. This is the initial of the designer. The other mint marks that are apparent are S or D. The S means that the coin was produced at the San Francisco mint and the D stands for the Denver mint. The Philadelphia mint produced the quarters that have a date that lacks an accompanying mark.
Collecting Tips

Many coin collectors know that this hobby can be an outstanding investment, but it is the thrill of finding a rare or elusive example that keeps most people interested. Whether you are collecting for fun or profit here are some tips that can help you along the way.

• Talk with experienced collectors and let them help you learn the basics.
• Read books and attend coin shows to gain more knowledge about this hobby.
• Only deal with people that you can trust, and beware of those offers that seem too good to be true. If a rare coin is being sold at an incredibly low price the chances of it being an honest transaction are almost ZERO.
• Try to find the highest grade examples of a coin that you can afford. Those in poor or good condition are acceptable if you just want to complete a set, but most of these will not be very good investments.
• Keep those uncirculated coins in pristine condition at all times. These are kept in special covers or sealed containers, and you should never handle them with bare hands.
• Study the grading scale and make sure that you are familiar with the qualities that determine whether a coin should be listed as NM, VF or Good.

Rarities

In addition to the rarity of the 1916 Standing Liberty quarters there are a few other low production dates that collectors are constantly hoping to find. The 1927 D series contained less than 1,000,000 total coins. The 1927 S series was limited to less than 400,000 Standing Liberty quarters. The 1918 S date was struck on more than 11 million quarters but there are a few that are known to have a 1918/7-S overlay on the date strike mark. This has made this particular coin a particular treasure and it remains one of the most coveted of all Standing Liberty specimens.

Today, our coins are created at such a high speed that it is tough for the unaided eye to catch any glitches. In fact, nearly every second ten coins are being made. To combat this, the mints have installed machines whose sole purpose is to quality control check the coins that are being manufactured. These machines will check for misshapen coins. Theoretically, these machines should help to keep all coins with an error out of circulation, but there have often been found misshapen coins out in the world. However, not all of the defective coins that have been found have been purely mistakes. In the past, there have even been workers from the mint who made a great deal of money by selling collectors coins with errors. However, the U.S. Mint takes that behavior very seriously, and will prosecute any offenders to the fullest extent of the law. That being said, error coins have a very high price tag associated with them so the desire to distribute them is also very high.

Error coins are typically referred to as FIDO’s, which stands for Freaks, Irregulars, Defectives, and Oddities. However, in the 1960s, an interest in error coins started to develop. In fact, there were even clubs started that were dedicated to studying these FIDO’s. Since the 1960’s the popularity of these coins has steadily increased.

There are three types of coin errors that can be made. Collectors have developed a classification system to identify these defective coins. They label each error coin with a P (Planchet), a D (Die), or an S (Strike). Often though a single coin could contain more than one error, but the majority of error coins do fall into one of the three categories.

A P (planchet) rating means that the coin does not have the raised rim like a traditional coin would have. A planchet error can also mean that the coin was struck with the wrong press. A D (die) rating means that the coin has endured a “die error.” Probably the most common type of die error is when a portion of the die pulls away and produces a crack in the coin. The third classification an S (Striking) rating are usually the most sought after effort coins. A striking error is when something goes wrong with the pressing of the coin resulting to an error in the image on the coin. For example, an off center coin is quite a common striking error. Coins like this have a hefty price tag that will accompany them.

Mints occasionally produce commemorative coins, tokens or medals which are primarily made for the collector's market. For examples, there are commemorative coins minted for the Olympic Games.

Half-cent coins, oversized coins, coins in odd denominations and more are among the coins which collectors crave. Many collectors like to collect sets – these are often too expensive for many collectors, who will instead set a goal of collecting one of each type.

Here are some of the more common types.

One cent coins – these have been minted since 1856. The collectible categories among these are the Flying Eagle Cent, made from 1856 to 1858, the Indian Head Cent, minted from 1859 to 1909 and the more recent Wheat Back Lincoln Cent made from 1909 to 1958.

Nickels – usually made from a nickel-copper alloy and having a face value of five cents. Collectible nickesl include the Liberty Head "V" Nickel made from 1883 to 1913. There are many 1913 counterfeits, but a genuine 1913 is very valuable. The Buffalo Nickel was produced from 1913 to 1938 and is also a sought after item among collectors. Also prized are Word War II era nickels, which were made of copper, silver and manganese due to wartime metal rationing.

Dimes – made since 1792 and having a face value f ten cents, dimes were once made of 90% silver and 10% copper. The silver content of these coins has been dropping ever since their introduction. In 1965, dimes began to be minted with 75% copper and 25% nickel. These components were chosen since they are not precious metals. This means that older dimes will tend to fetch a higher price on the market.

The more commonly collected dimes include the Mercury Dime, produced from 1916-1945 and the Barber Dime, minted between 1892 and 1916.

Rare quarters are a harder thing to find. There is the Standing Liberty Quarter, made from 1916 to 1930 and the very rare Barber Quarter, produced from 1892 to 1916.

Half dollar coins are becoming more and more rare. Even though it is a relatively recent coin, most coin collectors are thrilled to come across a Franklin Half Dollar coin; these were minted between 1948 and 1963.

It's fairly easy to find genuine silver dollars, but their precious metal content means that they tend to have price which is higher than their face value. Morgan's minted silver dollars from 1878 to 1921 are a somewhat common collectible coin, but the Peace Dollar, produced from 1921 to 1935 is a much rarer find.

For U.S. based collectors, specialty categories of collectible coins include foreign coins which are no longer in circulation, commemorative coins and gold coins which were produced before 1933. These include the Gold Dollars made from 1849 to 1899 and Double Eagles; these were minted from 1849 to 1933 and are also known as twenty dollar gold pieces.

While not coins per se, tokens and medals are often part of coin collections, especially subway tokens. When these medals and tokens are rare or commemorative in nature, they can be very valuable.

Once the first categorization of a coin is made, the dealer or collector will then go on to the next step – grading the coin in front of them.

The system of grading was developed to assess the condition of a coin.  In the beginning, there were just a few grades for coins, but in the 1940s, Dr. William Sheldon entered the scene and revolutionized the grading system.

Basically, there are 70 different types of grades that can be assigned to any coin.  There are basically five characteristics that you need to take into account when you’re grading your coin.  By looking at the coins strike, surface preservation, coloration, luster, and eye appeal, you will be able to determine the best grade for your coin.

The coins strike is the design that has been pressed onto either side of the coin.  When grading your coin you are going to want to look at how hard the coin has been pressed.  Do you have a strong image on the coin?  If so then your coin has a strong strike.  Yes, the coins strike does enter into the grading process, but it is not the most major characteristic that you look at when grading your coin.

Each coin will have several marks on it, and the placement of those can factor into your coins grade.  If a coin has a deep mark on reverse side of the coin it would not be as devalued as much if the same coin had that mark on the other side of the coin.  Additionally, coins that have a lot of open space for marks versus those with very busy designs are often not penalized quite as harshly.

There are a lot of factors that can impact a coin's surface, like the metal it’s made of or the mint that it was made in.  That being taken into consideration you have to take some time to classify the luster of each of your coins.  Coins can have many different lusters, ranging from a satiny appearance to a proof-like appearance.  Determining a coins luster will also help you see if a coin was ever in circulation.

Color is probably the most difficult detail to asses.  From person to person, their assessment of what color the coin is can be quite different.  Due to that, while color does play a part in the grading process, it is most certainly not the most important aspect of the coin.

Lastly, while grading your coin you need to evaluate your coins “eye appeal.”  This means exactly what it sounds like, that your coin looks good.  Though this may seem like everyone would have a different opinion through coin collectors it seems that most of the time they agree on a coin having either good or bad eye appeal.

Despite many improvements the methods of grading coins in the last decade, the process of grading coins is still as much an art as it is a science. Knowledgeable dealers issue a judgment based on observations and information achieved through many years of experience. Skilled practitioners can arrive at widely varying conclusions.

Basically the answer lies with the coin, as with any other investment product, any item traded within a free market system is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. In this context, grading does play a far-reaching role in terms of assessment of the value of the coin.

Grading of coins traditionally runs through poor, fair, almost good, very good, fine, very fine, extra fine, almost un-circulated, un-circulated and brilliant, so as it seems the less the coin has been seen the better the grading. The ability to actually grade a coin is a judgment call; however there are a number of factors that determine this call:

• Examination of the coin under magnification to determine overall condition, un-circulated coins will contain certain defects, the most common of which are called "bag dents". When coins are placed together in a bag, the way in which they are generally transported produce nicks, dents and other small aspect of damage.
• Very typically, circulated coins are handled thousands of times, as they are handled more they become more worn, edges and surfaces decay and this degrades them.
• The high points of a coin receive wear sooner than the other surfaces. Numbers and letters generally suffer first, but images (or devices) also suffer. These are more difficult to detect and makes the coin in "less than mint condition" this also causes the coin to be graded lower.

For example in an "Indian Head Cent" it is very important to ensure that the letters spelling out "liberty" can distinctly be seen on the headband of the Indian. In the instance of a Buffalo Nickel, a high-grade coin will have a well-formed head and tail.

Finer grades are used in more contemporary grading systems. There is the Sheldon System, this has established points from one to seventy; this has created an increasingly sophisticated system of detailed grades.

The Professional Coin Grading Service adapted this system in 1986 to extend it and add combinations of numbers to define coinage grades. So you might see PO-1, MS-60, and VF-25 MS meaning Mint State. This particular system is used extensively, worldwide today.

Grading is no the one deciding factor that determines the value of a collectible coin. Rarity too is a deciding factor, as this is the case with any collectible. It does play a large role, but age is also a factor, although a 1921 Morgan Dollar in bad condition may be worth even less than a dollar is worth today.

Self-assessment is valuable, so therefore is educating ones-self to the skills involved in self-assessment of coin values. Of course one of the most invaluable ways to assess the value of a coin or collection is to obtain at least two expert opinions, weigh up your options, because if your coin or collection came from a loved ones’ private collection, the sentimental value may be worth much more to you than any dollar value.

The $20 gold coin would have never been developed had it been not for the great discovery of gold. In 1848, gold began to be mined in California, and that discovery led to the mass migration to the west that caused the Gold Rush. That gold rush led to gold being shipped through the country, and due to that, the United States Mint decided to up the amount of the coins that they were making at that time. Traditionally, the United States Mint crafted $10 coins, but now they were anxious to craft a $20 piece. The issue was moved quickly to congress for authorization, and in February of 1849, it was approved. The $20 gold piece was going into production.

James Barton Longacre, the chief engraver at the time, was the one who created the designs for the golden coins. Of the two patterns developed, only one has ever been found. It was first manufactured on March 12, 1850. These coins have come to be known as “double eagles.” This nickname developed because originally the $10 coins were referred to as “eagles” hence a $20 coin is double the amount of the original coins.

President Theodore Roosevelt also plays a role in the history of the $20 double eagle golden coin. President Roosevelt had a dream to pay homage to the beauty of coins from ancient Greece. To put his dream into reality he contacted Augustus Saint-Gaudens to put a new design onto the $20 gold coin. Saint-Gaudens decided to outfit the updated gold coins with a bald eagle on one side, and an image of the statue of liberty on the other. This coin was first manufactured in 1907 and remained in the system until 1933.

In 1933 there were 455, 500 double eagle coins made, but these coins were never released to the public. Instead, they were intended to be a donation to the National Museum of American History. These coins can still be seen in the “Money and Medals Hall.”

After the First World War, economic stability was simply not there. Due to the economic state of the day, individuals began to really hang on to any gold that they had in their possession. Ultimately, this had a negative effect on the United States gold reserves. Soon after a bank crisis hit America, and even though the President passed his “Emergency Bank Relief Act”, the plethora of gold had vanished. In 1934, many of the 1933 gold coins were melted down, and the beauty of the double eagle coins was lost except for a few that are currently on display in the National Museum of History.

Coins should be stored in Mylar containers to prevent them from being damaged by oxidation, scrapes and oils from the skin. These containers come in a variety if styles.

You can get cardboard coin holders which are lined with Mylar very cheaply. These holders use cut outs so that both sides of the coin can be readily seen. These come quite often in two inch by two inch size, called two by twos.

There are holders which contain several coins, while others are individual sleeves which hold only one coin. There are also styles with holes so that your sheets can be kept in a binder, but most collectors agree that coins should be displayed.

Collectors with larger collections often opt for cabinets; these range from small cigar-box style cases to large, free standing display cabinets to show off your coin collection. The higher end cabinets even have climate control to best preserve your collection.

Rosewood and aged mahogany are both great choices for wooden cabinets. Oak, however should be avoided as it emits organic compounds which are not good for your coins. There are several types of tree which emit these volatile compounds; they should be avoided for coin cabinets.

For this reason, a lot of coin collectors recommend metal cabinets for displaying a collection. There are many different styles available; some have coatings which are oxidation resistant. Not as attractive, but certainly safe for your coins are polystyrene and plastic containers.

No matter what type of cabinet you choose (unless you buy ne with climate control) you will need some desiccant – silica gel packets work fine. This will absorb moisture which could damage your coins.

Some collectors even go so far as to wax or oil their coins, but this is not generally advisable. Oil can cause contaminants to cling to the coin and wax and dull the finish of the coin.

There are several things which should be avoided.

Avoiding exposing your coins to air is generally a good idea, but it's not true that any packaging is better than no packaging. For instance, PVC sleeves are not a good idea – they can react with your coins, causing a greenish residue which can harm your coins and is difficult to remove.

While it's always best to display your coins, it may be necessary to store them at times. A paper envelope can be used, but you should get envelopes which are made of acid-free paper; ordinary paper can damage coins, especially copper coins.

You should not store collectible coins in rolls or tubes – this does not keep them protected from the air and causes scratching.

The best containers are specially made sealing containers to safely hold your collectible coin; they add a little to the upfront cost of the coin, but they will keep your coin in top condition for storage and display.